Staining & Sealing a Wood Fence

Why Stain or Seal a Wood Fence?

Bare wood takes a beating here. Summer sun breaks down the surface and turns it gray. Rain and humid nights soak the boards, then hot days dry them out, and that cycle causes cracking, cupping and warping.

A stain or sealer slows all of that down:

Pressure-treated pine is already protected against termites and rot inside the wood. Stain protects the outside, which is what you see and what weathers first.

How Often Should You Stain a Fence?

Plan on every 2 to 4 years for most wood fences in East Tennessee. The south- and west-facing sides that get afternoon sun usually need it first.

It is time to re-stain when you see:

You do not have to redo the whole fence at once. Touch up the sunny sections sooner and do the shaded side on the next round.

How to Stain a Wood Fence, Step by Step

Most of a good stain job is prep. Skip the cleaning and the stain will not last.

1. Check the weather. Pick two or three dry days in a row, between about 50°F and 90°F, with no rain in the forecast. Spring and fall are ideal here. Avoid staining in direct midday summer sun, which dries the stain before it soaks in.
2. Repair first. Replace cracked pickets, tighten loose boards and reset leaning posts before you stain. Need help? See fence repair.
3. Clean the fence. Use a wood or deck cleaner and a stiff brush, or a pressure washer on a low setting held a foot or more away. Too much pressure raises fuzz and gouges soft pine.
4. Let it dry. Give the fence at least 48 hours after washing, then do the water drop test.
5. Protect what you don't want stained. Cover plants, siding, concrete and gate hardware with drop cloths or plastic.
6. Stir, don't shake. Mix the stain well and use cans from the same batch, or combine them, so the color matches.
7. Apply top to bottom, a few boards at a time. Use a sprayer, roller or brush, then back-brush to work the stain into the wood. Keep a wet edge to avoid lap marks.
8. Don't forget the edges and the bottom. End grain and the boards near the ground soak up the most water, so give them a full coat.
9. Wipe off puddles. Too much stain on the surface stays tacky and can peel. Follow the label on whether a second coat is needed.
10. Let it cure. Keep sprinklers, pets and ladders off the fence for the time the label says, usually 24 to 48 hours.

Choosing a Stain Color

The more pigment a stain has, the better it blocks the sun and the longer it lasts. Clear finishes look natural at first but fade fastest.

• Natural and cedar tones are the most popular on pressure-treated pine and warm up the green-gray color of new boards.
• Browns and dark tones hide uneven boards and dirt well but show fading sooner in full sun.
• Grays and solid colors give a modern look and can make an older fence with mixed boards look uniform.

Test the color on one hidden board first and let it dry. Stain looks different on pine than on the chart, and the same color looks lighter on a sunny side than on a shaded one.
If you have an HOA, check its rules before you pick a color. Many neighborhoods limit fence colors on the side facing the street.

TN 811: Always Call Before You Dig

This one isn't optional. Before anyone digs fence-post holes in Tennessee, underground utilities must be located and marked. It's free, it's the law, and it prevents dangerous, expensive strikes on gas, electric, water and communication lines.

• Contact Tennessee 811 by dialing 811 (or 1-800-351-1111) at least a few business days before digging.
• Utility companies come out and mark their lines with paint and flags, at no cost to you.
• We coordinate the 811 request and schedule around the markings for every job.